
Mobi shot of coffee and cake in Cafe Slavia, the famous old Prague cafe that’s still a lovely place to go
My act of rest-stopping was, then, to scarper to Prague for a long-ish weekend, joining Mrs Tosh who’d been there working for most of the week. Two notable* things emerged from this excursion.
First, the trouble with those damned guidebooks. I bought the Lonely Planet guide to Prague, appreciating the fact it had recently been republished. Terrible mistake. Should have stuck with stuffy old Berlitz or the out-of-date Rough Guide.
Take, for instance, the case of our hotel. Called the Cloister Inn, it was apparently the former home to the secret police back in the Communist days. It appears to have retained much of that period’s charm.
Our room sported true youth hostel elan - single beds like boards, carpet that would cut your feet (I exaggerate) and grains of glass on the bathroom floor that really did cut your feet (I don’t exaggerate). Lonely Planet describes it as:
"A comfortable place."
Maybe the author was resident here back in the day. Everything’s relative, I guess.
He was also frustratingly vague about restaurants. Having apparently glanced at the menu of the very good Klub Architecktu, noting its "apparently vegan" offerings, he dissed it for being part of "a slightly smug complex dedicated to modern architecture".
Slightly smug? What does a "slightly smug" building do to express its self-righteous complacency? Even if a modest little centre, with a very nice restaurant, could express its self-satisfaction, it would be bloody silly to do so in a city like Prague; a Romanesque and Baroque orgy of a place, where much of the most modern architecture is butt-ugly apartment blocks on the outskirts (now interspersed, unlike on our last visit in 1998, with KFCs), or the outstandingly grotesque Hilton.
Were I a complex dedicated to modern architecture, I’d be showing my carefully angled, concrete and suspended glass face with some caution, saying "sorry" quite a lot, and hanging back on the slight smugness until I’d notched up, ooh, say, a century or so of steady success.
Second (yes - this is only the second notable* point, sorry). A few years ago, Motorola took a bunch of tech hacks off to New York (the dot.com bubble was yet to pop). Up the Rockefeller tower, we were treated to a short film on the Future of Mobile Phones - none of which, funnily enough, involved slumping market share or near-universal derision for a pisspoor user interface.
No, they saw The Future as involving sharply dressed chaps changing their plans to travel to LA, and opting instead for Tokyo (as one does) and then booking flights and hotels and a taxi on their Moto mobiles, sprinkling goodness down the m-commerce value chain, or somesuch. Before ordering another latte.
We all sniggered, of course, although not as much as we sniggered when they produced the motivational speaker later on in the presentation. But, the point is, Motorola were pretty much right in their vision. Or, at least, if not spot on, they probably got the extent of the change about right. We really would become mobile-toting cocky latte-sipping bastards within a very short space of time.
Fast forward to this weekend. On arrival in the Czech capital’s airport, I got a text from Mrs Tosh, with the name of a restaurant in which we and others were to meet. I had no address, and no knowledge of its dress code. So I Googled the place. On my mobile. Read it was smarter than sneaks and t-shirt, so changed in the airport, got the address for the taxi driver, and on the way read about the establishment’s fine steaks. Running slightly late, I’d ordered before I arrived.
And that, I realised almost immediately, was a series of acts just oozing technocratic smugness, all so horrifically yuppyesque I probably deserve to be thwacked to death with an oversized, antique, analogue Motorola quite soon.
Which is fine. Just don’t ask me to use the damned thing - the Geneva Convention covers that.
* The dictionary definition of notable is, of course, "worthy of note or notice; remarkable, or characterized by excellence or distinction". I’m using the word in its newer blogging definition, which is to say: worthy of blog post or posts, characterized by less than usual mind-numbing banality. The blogging definition is derived, furthermore, from the Saturday newspaper column definition, coined c. 1988.
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COMMENTS / 7 COMMENTS
Chris thought this on Jul 18 05 at 12:11 amHow’s the waistline, then?
Jackie Danicki thought this on Jul 18 05 at 12:42 amOh, the mobile thing is definitely notable - much more so than my own excitement at being able to use my iMate Jam to check my email while waiting on the Tube platform every morning, or even without getting out of bed (or having to - sigh - lug the laptop into bed and wait a whole minute to boot up and get online). These changes to human behaviour and communications are not insignificant, if only because they further entrench us in the always-connectedness that makes it harder and harder to avoid people…
Ewan McIntosh thought this on Jul 18 05 at 11:48 amWhy didn’t you tell me you were both in Prague - SO WAS I!! At least we sent you a postcard.
Our hotel, too, was described as ‘comfortable’ by our guide (which was also out of date despite only coming out 7 months ago) and we had to complain bitterly to get moved out of a twin bedroom with wooden plank single beds that were bolted to the floor. Were they worried that Russian businessmen would steal them? (The hotel was heavily populated by the Russian businessman).
Our carpets really did cut our feet and the glass on the bathroom floor may well have done the same had the bathroom not been so small as to force the user to leave their feet outside the door as (s)he went about business.
Besides that and the torrential rainstorms, delivering Prague’s monthly average of 25mm in the space of one hour, the holiday was great.
Glad you enjoyed yourself. We’re planning next summer already and this will almost certainly involve some sunshine, a pool and cocktails.
pieman thought this on Jul 19 05 at 4:22 amAbout guidebooks. I don’t know what LP’s budget is, but I updated a couple of guidebooks some years ago (not LP, but another biggie) and the payment was piss poor, the work hurried, most of which was done by phone call or surfing the net. My editor told me “There isn’t a travel budget. We don’t do that sort of thing for updates.” Uhhh?? for a well known travel guidebook series? Herrroohh… So, your experience doesn’t surprise me in the slightest.
And about mobiles and travelling. I think the Guardian Travel piece a few weeks back outlined a very cool way to travel in 2005:
http://travel.guardian.co.uk/c.....77,00.html
Did you like the Czech beer? Fried cheese? Roast pig trotter?
Neil McIntosh thought this on Jul 19 05 at 6:59 amPieman - must say I love Czech beer, but I know not to have too much - it causes quite unrivalled hangovers. Even worse than whisky. But Czech food - oh, lovely. Dumpings. Amazing sausages. Lots of meat. Unashamed use of sprouts. Glorious. Better in the winter, mind you, when you’re looking for something warming and filling.
pieman thought this on Jul 19 05 at 7:34 amInteresting… not my experience. We have a genuine Czech microbrewery in Saigon, actually listed in all seriousness as “the Honorary Czech Consulate”. It serves excellent beer and hangovers have never been a problem. However, I have heard several distressing reports of toilet issues after a night at this brewery.
Agreed on the seasonal nature of Czech nosh. Would very much like to try it in situ and not in the stifling heat here.
Dez 'Snake' Anderson thought this on Jan 14 06 at 8:58 pmvery interested to read your piece on prague. i have so far been there three times, and two of those were last year.
Your observations on the quality of the hotels is something i have experienced. I have twice stayed at the Hotel Imperial, near the main train station. I found it very basic, although the glass on the bathroom floor was no something i encountered. The main benefit of the Imperial is that it has a very nice traditional cafe, complete with amazingly complex Art Deco ceramic interior. The cafe is famous for offering customers, at a price i admit i have forgotten but remember being reasonable, the chance to have a food fight with the remains of yesterdays stale donuts. This fight, although i myself only ever witnessed the aftermath of one, takes place with all the other customers still present in the cafe.
I dont know whethere who came across this whilst you were there, but there is a strange atmosphere when engaging with any tourist information services. I generally felt like it was the intention of these bureaus to advised you on the course of action that would result in the largest financial expense. Fo example, the day before i was due to leave on my third trip (in late summer 2005), i went into a tourist info centre to find out about the best way of getting to the airport from the centre of town, with all willingness to use as much public transport as possible. They suggested the airport shuttle bus, costing around 80 crowns per person. I knew this cant be the only way, so i went to one of the information desk at a metro station. Although the person on duty spoke english far less fluently than the individual i encountered at the tourist info centre, he pointed me in the direction of the metro for a few stops and then a chance to a bus that goes to the airport, all this at a quarter of the price. Maybe the tourist info person just thought it would be easier for me to just get the shuttle bus, being an english tourist, i cannot say for sure. but i often got the feeling on more than one occasion that i was in high danger of being ‘taken for a ride’.
sorry for the waffle. prague is a city which i have a unique fondness for me and am always grateful to hear other peoples experiences of the city. the reason why i included my ‘nickname’ is because it was concieved during a night out in prague, largely by my own request and the collective annoyance of those around me.
would be very interested to hear any further thoughtss you have.
dez anderson aka snake
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